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North ABC Trek to Pancha Kunda Lake: First-Hand Guide (Maurice Herzog Trail)
- Authors
- Name
- Pratap Sharma
- @pratap2210
- Website
- https://pratapsharma.io
The North ABC trek — also called the North Annapurna Base Camp trek or Maurice Herzog Trail — is the quieter, wilder way to stand beneath Annapurna I. Unlike the busy southern Annapurna Base Camp route with teahouses every few hours, the north side still means self-supported camping, your own food, and long stretches of river gorge before the turquoise payoff at Pancha Kunda Lake (also spelled Panchakunda).
On 13 October 2024, I rode out of Pokhara with five friends — Sujata, Prashar, Suraj, Madhav, and Asmita — for a three-day push toward North ABC. We carried tents because there were no lodges on the trail we planned. We reached the lake. We woke to a 360° Himalayan wall. And we learned, the hard way, what happens when monsoon floods wipe a temporary bridge and the glacial water is too cold to cross.
This is that journey — day by day — plus the practical notes I wish we had printed before we left Tatopani. Watch the full film on YouTube: North ABC trek vlog.
Gallery
North ABC Trek at a Glance
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Route name | North Annapurna Base Camp / Maurice Herzog Trail |
| Our duration | 3 days (Pokhara → lake → return) |
| Max altitude | ~4,050 m at Pancha Kunda; North ABC marked ~4,190 m |
| Difficulty | Challenging — camping, steep gorge, rapid altitude gain |
| Trailhead | Hum Khola (jeep from Tatopani / Narchyang side) |
| Key stops | Beni → Tatopani → Hum Khola → Phutphute Waterfall → Bisket Mela → Pancha Kunda |
| Accommodation | Camping only on the high trail (bring tent + food) |
| Best season | October–November & March–May |
| Permits | ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area); check TIMS rules when you book |
| Unlike South ABC | Far fewer teahouses; self-supported wilderness feel |
Compare this with the classic southern route in our Annapurna Base Camp Trek guide, or a shorter Pokhara option like Mardi Himal or Kapuche Glacier Lake.
Why North ABC Feels Different
A few things that stuck with us after we rode back to Beni:
- True wilderness camping — on our dates there were no lodges on the North ABC trail section we walked, so tents, fuel, and food were non-negotiable
- Phutphute Waterfall — a full hour of photos, video, and turquoise river mist under a suspension bridge
- Pancha Kunda Lake — milky glacial blue, ice on the surface in the morning, and a wall of snow peaks that feels unreal after the dusty climb
- Sky Cave and Miristi Khola scenery — prayer flags, boulder rivers, and that “you are small” Himalayan scale
- Honesty about access — floods can remove temporary bridges; cold glacial water is not a casual ford
Our 3-Day North ABC Itinerary (October 2024)
Day 1 — Pokhara → Beni → Tatopani → Hum Khola (camp)
We left Pokhara around 8:00 am on bikes. By 11:00 am we were in Beni Bazar — lunch, last shopping for trek food and camping supplies, then the ride onward to Tatopani Bazar.
At Tatopani we parked the bikes and switched to a pre-booked Bolero jeep for the rough road to Hum Khola. We rolled in around 5:15 pm, pitched tents in fading light, cooked dinner, and slept at the trailhead.
Takeaway: Start earlier if you can. The Tatopani–Hum Khola jeep section eats time, and you want daylight to set camp.
Day 2 — Hum Khola → Phutphute Waterfall → Bisket Mela → Pancha Kunda Lake
Tea before dawn. Boots on by ~6:45 am.
The trail threads bridges, river, and waterfalls. The highlight of the morning was Phutphute Waterfall — we stopped for nearly an hour filming and shooting stills. The turquoise glacial water, wooden suspension bridge, and prayer flags make it one of the most photogenic spots on the entire North ABC trek.
By ~1:00 pm we reached Bisket Mela (you may also see spellings like Bhusket / Busket Mela on other maps). No kitchen waiting for us — we cooked our own rice, vegetable curry, and chutney, ate under a tarp, then kept climbing.
We hit Pancha Kunda Lake around 6:45 pm. Peak season meant lots of other trekkers and a scramble for flat tent space on rocky ground. We finally found a pitch, snacked on noodles we had packed, and were asleep by ~8:30 pm.
Day 3 — Lake sunrise, North ABC attempt, return to Tatopani & Beni
Morning at Pancha Kunda is why you carry the tent. 360° Himalayan views, that deep lake blueness, ice on the water, and light hitting the snow. We filmed, flew the drone, and soaked it in.
We planned to push on to North Annapurna Base Camp (~4,190 m). A recent flood had swept the temporary bridge. The river was too cold and fast for a safe crossing, so we turned around rather than force it. We still marked the moment at the North Base Camp welcome sign, took our photos, and started the descent.
Around 10:00 am we began the return. Same Bolero met us at Hum Khola ~4:00 pm. Jeep to Tatopani, reclaim the bikes, ride to Beni — dusty, tired, and already planning the next trip.
Watch the Full North ABC Vlog
For the river crossings, waterfall hour, camp nights, and drone over Pancha Kunda, watch the full journey here:
North ABC Trek — full YouTube vlog
How to Plan Your Own North ABC Trek
Getting there from Pokhara
- Pokhara → Beni — bike, bus, or jeep (we rode bikes)
- Beni → Tatopani — continue by road; stock food and fuel in Beni/Tatopani
- Tatopani → Hum Khola — rough jeep/Bolero road (book ahead in peak season)
- Hum Khola → Pancha Kunda / North ABC — on foot with camping gear
Camping & food reality check
This is not a teahouse trek like southern ABC:
- Bring a reliable tent, sleeping bags rated for cold nights above 4,000 m, and a stove
- Pack staple meals (rice, dal, noodles, tea) plus snacks for late arrivals
- Expect busy campsites at the lake in October — arrive with daylight if you can
- Carry out all rubbish; this valley stays wild partly because visitors treat it that way
Permits
The route sits inside the Annapurna Conservation Area. Arrange an ACAP permit in Pokhara (or Kathmandu) before you go, and confirm current TIMS / guide rules with a licensed agency — regulations for remote Annapurna trails can change.
Best season for North ABC and Pancha Kunda
| Season | Months | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Autumn (best) | Oct–Nov | Clear skies, stable weather — our October window worked well for views |
| Spring | Mar–May | Good visibility; watch late-season snow higher up |
| Winter | Dec–Feb | Very cold camping; ice on the lake is dramatic but demanding |
| Monsoon | Jun–Sep | Landslides, swollen rivers, damaged bridges — high risk |
Flood and bridge tip: Ask locally in Tatopani / Hum Khola about river crossings and temporary bridges before you commit to a base-camp push. Conditions change after heavy rain.
What we packed (and used)
- Tent, sleeping bags, mats
- Stove + fuel, rice, curry ingredients, noodles, tea
- Layered trekking clothes, warm jacket for lake night
- Trekking shoes with grip on wet rock
- Headlamp, power bank, camera / drone
- Cash in NPR (no ATM on trail)
- ACAP and ID documents
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the North ABC trek?
The North Annapurna Base Camp trek approaches Annapurna I from the north via Tatopani, Hum Khola, and the Miristi Khola valley. It follows the historic Maurice Herzog Trail and is far less commercialised than the southern ABC trail from Nayapul / Chhomrong.
Where is Pancha Kunda Lake?
Pancha Kunda (Panchakunda — “five holy ponds”) is a glacial alpine lake near North ABC, roughly 4,000–4,050 m, famous for its turquoise colour and close views of Annapurna’s north face.
How long does the North ABC trek take?
Guided packages often run longer with acclimatisation. Our self-supported push was 3 days from Pokhara (one camp at Hum Khola, one at the lake). Fit groups can do it fast; slower or safer itineraries add nights for altitude.
Is North ABC harder than regular ABC?
For most people, yes — because of camping logistics, fewer facilities, steeper gorge terrain, and quicker altitude gain. Southern ABC has continuous teahouses; North ABC rewards preparation.
Can you reach North Base Camp every season?
Not always. Bridges wash out, and glacial rivers are dangerous to ford. On our October 2024 trip we reached Pancha Kunda and the North ABC signage area but could not safely cross to the far base-camp side after a flood removed the temporary bridge.
Do you need a guide for North ABC?
Independent camping groups sometimes go, but a licensed guide / agency is strongly recommended for permits, route finding, weather, and river safety — especially if you are new to high-altitude camping in Nepal.
Final Thoughts From Our October Trek
North ABC gave us everything we came for — waterfall mist at Phutphute, a homemade lunch at Bisket Mela, and that first morning stare into Pancha Kunda’s blue — and it also taught us humility about Himalayan rivers. The mountain does not care about your itinerary if the bridge is gone.
If I did it again I would:
- Leave Pokhara earlier on Day 1 for more camp-setup light at Hum Khola
- Confirm bridge status the day before the lake push
- Aim to reach Pancha Kunda before late afternoon for easier tent spots in peak season
- Pack one extra warm layer for the lake night — it bites
For the motion, sound, and drone perspective of the same trip, start the full North ABC YouTube vlog.
Plan More Annapurna Adventures
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek guide — classic southern teahouse route
- Mardi Himal Base Camp Trek — shorter high trail near Pokhara
- Kapuche Glacier Lake Trek — quieter glacial lake hike
- Pokhara destination guide
- Annapurna Base Camp activity
- Adventures in Nepal
- Watch: North ABC trek vlog on YouTube